Tsum Valley: Nepal's Hidden Himalayan Kingdom

The trail splits at the base of Nyak cliff, and most trekkers turn left, continuing the well-worn path of the Manaslu Circuit. But a few of us turn right, following the Siyar River into a different world entirely. Within hours, the landscape shifts. Stone chortens appear at every bend. Mani walls, carved with Sanskrit prayers and Buddhist deities, line the path like ancient guardians . This is the entrance to Tsum Valley, a place so secluded that it remained largely unknown to the outside world until 2008.

I had heard whispers of this valley from other trekkers, spoken of in hushed tones like a secret too precious to share. "It's a Beyul," they said, using the Tibetan word for a hidden sacred valley, a spiritual refuge created by the 8th-century Buddhist master Guru Rinpoche himself . After four days of walking from the nearest road, I understood why. This was not just a trek. It was a pilgrimage.

The Land of Non-Violence

The first thing you notice about Tsum Valley is the absence of a familiar sound: the crack of a hunter's rifle or the bark of a hunting dog. In 1920, the people of this valley, guided by their Buddhist faith, made a profound declaration. They declared the upper reaches of Tsum a "Shyagya" area, a land of non-violence . The rules were carved into stone: no killing of animals, no hunting, no collecting of honey, no trading of meat .

This commitment was reaffirmed again and again over the decades, in ceremonies held in 1939, 1965, and as recently as 1998 . The result is a place that feels profoundly different from the rest of Nepal. Walking through the valleys, you are more likely to spot a herd of blue sheep on the slopes or the elusive Himalayan tahr than you are to hear a gunshot . The Tsumba people, the inhabitants of this valley, have become the guardians of their environment, their faith woven into the very fabric of their daily lives . They do not build fires in the forest. They do not trap birds. Their philosophy of non-violence extends to all living things.

The Tsumba People and Their Ancient Ways

The Tsumba are a people of Tibetan origin, and their language, Tsumke, is a unique dialect that has survived centuries of isolation . They are pastoralists, farmers, and traders, their lives dictated by the rhythms of the seasons and the dictates of their Buddhist faith . Their traditional governance structure, led by village leaders known as Ghenchen and clan heads called Syara, has kept their society cohesive and their culture intact .

I stopped for breakfast in Chhokhang Paro, a large village set on a flat plateau at 3,000 metres . At the New Milarepa Guesthouse, I met Pembu Lama, a 27-year-old who had returned to his village after years of study in India. "Other than tourism, there isn't much to keep young people here these days," he told me, his eyes scanning the terraced fields where his family has farmed for generations. "Yet you won't find a place with more fresh air, peace, and quiet, and no stress than here."

In the higher villages, some families still practice polyandry, a tradition where brothers share a single wife . It is a practical solution to a harsh environment, a way to keep family land intact and prevent it from being divided among too many heirs. This is not a museum. It is a living culture, adapting and enduring.

Monasteries and Cave Hermitages

The spiritual heart of Tsum Valley lies in its monasteries, ancient centres of learning and meditation that cling to the mountainsides. Rachen Gompa, a sprawling nunnery perched on a plateau at 3,240 metres, is home to 36 nuns led by the respected scholar Geshe Tenzin Nyima . It was established in 1936 by the Bhutanese lama Drupa Rinpoche.

Stupa, also known as Chorten, and mani stones in the Tsum Valley

Higher still, Mu Gompa at 3,700 metres marks the end of the valley for foreign visitors, looking out toward the passes into Tibet and down the valley towards the snowy peak of Himalchuli . A lone monk stands in the courtyard and blows into a conch shell, calling the community to evening prayer . Here, in this thin air, you feel the weight of centuries of devotion.

The landscape is dotted with the caves of saints. The revered Tibetan Buddhist master Milarepa is believed to have meditated in a cave here, blessing the Tsum and calling it Kyimolung, which means the "hidden valley of happiness" . Padmasambhava, the founder of Tibetan Buddhism, is also said to have performed penance in a cave near the village of Lungdang . These are not just tourist attractions; they are living shrines.

The Yarchagumba Gold

The people of Tsum have another source of income, one that is as controversial as it is lucrative. During the wet monsoon months of May to July, the villagers climb to the highest reaches of the valley to collect Yarchagumba, a caterpillar fungus promoted as a Himalayan Viagra and prized in Chinese medicine . Locals call it the "Himalayan Viagra" and it sells for over $25,000 a kilogram.

It is a back-breaking, dangerous job, but it is also a lifeline. The fungus provides a crucial source of cash for families who otherwise subsist on farming and animal husbandry. However, its popularity has raised conservation concerns, and it has recently been placed on the IUCN's Red List for vulnerable species . For the Tsumba, the Yarchagumba is a new source of "Tibetan gold" in a valley that has always had to fight for its survival.

Why Tsum Stays With You

Tsum Valley is not for everyone. It is remote. The trails are often unmarked and can be treacherous, with landslides that require constant maintenance . The accommodation is basic, the facilities are simple, and the permits are a bureaucratic hurdle . Yet, for those who make the journey, it offers something increasingly rare in Nepal: the sense of discovery. This is a place where the rhythms of life are measured not in footsteps but in harvests, where the people have chosen non-violence not just as a policy but as a way of life, and where the mountains are not just a backdrop but a presence, alive with the spirits of saints and the whispers of ancient prayers.

My final night was spent at the monastery guesthouse at Mu Gompa. I dug into a plate of dal bhaat, the lentil and rice curry that fuels most of Nepal, and stared down the valley at the snaking Siyar River . The wind howled outside, but inside the thick stone walls, there was only warmth and silence. This hidden valley of happiness reminded me why I continue to return to Nepal.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Tsum Valley and why is it special?
Tsum Valley is a remote Himalayan valley in Nepal's Gorkha District, known as a "Beyul" or sacred hidden valley in Tibetan Buddhism. It is famous for its unique "Shyagya" culture of non-violence, ancient monasteries like Mu Gompa and Rachen Gompa, and the Tsumba people who maintain Tibetan-influenced traditions.

How do I get there, and is it a difficult trek?
The trek begins with a drive to the trailhead, followed by a four-day walk from the nearest road . You can combine it with the Manaslu Circuit. The trek reaches a maximum altitude of 3,700 metres at Mu Gompa . It is considered moderate in difficulty but requires a licensed guide as it is a restricted area.

Do I need special permits to trek in Tsum Valley?
Yes. As a restricted area, you need a Tsum Valley Restricted Area Permit (RAP), a Manaslu Conservation Area Permit (MCAP), and if exiting via the Annapurna region, an Annapurna Conservation Area Permit (ACAP) . You cannot get these permits on your own; they must be arranged through a registered trekking agency .

What is the best time to visit Tsum Valley?
The best seasons are autumn (September to November) and spring (March to May). These periods offer the most stable weather and clearest mountain views . It coincides with the Yarchagumba collection season in the summer, but the weather can be wet.

Is it true that the people of Tsum are non-violent?
Yes. In 1920, the valley was declared "Shyagya," a non-violent area. This means hunting, killing animals, trading meat, and even collecting honey are prohibited . The philosophy is rooted in their Buddhist faith and has been upheld for generations.

Can I do this trek independently?
No. The government of Nepal mandates that all trekkers in the Manaslu and Tsum Valley regions must be accompanied by a licensed guide, and you must be in a group of at least two people . This is for safety and to ensure the rules of the restricted area are followed.

Contact Us

📧 Email: info@karmanepal.org
📍 Address: Gairidhara-1, Kathmandu, Nepal 44600
🇳🇵 Nepal: +977-9814127396
🇦🇺 Australia: +61-406783014
🇳🇿 New Zealand: +64 22 461 5509