Mai Pokhari: Eastern Nepal's Sacred Wetland of Nine Ponds

The road from Ilam Bazaar winds upward through endless tea gardens, their emerald terraces cascading down the hillsides like green waves frozen in time. As the altitude climbs towards 2,100 metres, the air cools and the familiar humidity of the lowlands gives way to a crisp mountain breeze. Around a final bend, the landscape opens, and there it lies: Mai Pokhari, a star-shaped lake with nine corners, each one a shrine to a different deity.

I had come to eastern Nepal expecting tea, and I found so much more. This is not just a lake, but a sacred convergence of faiths, a Ramsar wetland of international importance, and a sanctuary for wildlife that has drawn pilgrims and wanderers for centuries. The name itself is a blessing: Mai, meaning mother, a title that speaks to the reverence the local people hold for this place.

The Nine-Cornered Pond

Mai Pokhari covers approximately 90 hectares, its shoreline stretching for about a kilometre around a body of water fed by natural springs and the Puha River. What makes it unique is its shape: a nine-cornered pond, deliberately designed so that each of its nine points is dedicated to a different deity. This is not a coincidence of geology. According to local tradition, the Pandava brothers from the Hindu epic Mahabharata once took refuge here during their exile. The lake's sacred geometry is a physical map of the divine.

Surrounding the pond is the Maipokhari Botanical Garden, a living museum of eastern Nepal's botanical wealth. A rock garden, an orchid house, and a greenhouse display the incredible plant diversity of the region, collected from across the eastern Himalayas. Walking through it, I was struck by how seamlessly conservation and spirituality coexist here, the garden serving both as a scientific centre and a place of quiet contemplation.

Where Three Faiths Meet

Mai Pokhari is a pilgrimage site for Hindus, Buddhists, and followers of the Kirat tradition, a convergence so rare that it has been described as the meeting point of Hinduism, Buddhism, and the animist Mundhum belief system. Temples dedicated to Shiva, Saraswati, and Bhagawati dot the periphery, their bells and prayer flags a constant presence. The Tashi Choling spiritual community adds a Buddhist dimension, with its monasteries and teachings.

Diya at Maipokhari at Thulo Ekadashi Puja

The most significant festival here is Thulo Ekadashi, when thousands of pilgrims descend on Mai Pokhari for grand celebrations. The faithful come to bathe in the sacred waters, offer prayers, and receive blessings from the goddesses who are believed to reside here. I spoke to an elderly pilgrim who had walked for days to be here. "My grandmother brought me when I was a child," she told me. "Now I bring my grandchildren. This place is in our blood."

A Ramsar Wetland of International Importance

On 28 October 2008, Mai Pokhari was designated a Ramsar site, placing it on the global map of wetlands of international significance. It joined the ranks of Gokyo, Gosaikunda, Rara, and Phoksundo as one of Nepal's high-altitude wetlands recognised for their ecological value. The lake is a major habitat for species including the Himalayan newt, locally known as "Thakthake," and more than 300 species of birds have been recorded here.

The wetland supports protected animals like the white-rumped vulture, leopard cat, and Eurasian otter, as well as endemic species such as the Variegated mountain lizard. Walking along the shore, I spotted water lilies floating on the emerald surface and heard the call of birds hidden in the Schima castanopsis forest that surrounds the lake. It is a fragile ecosystem, one that has survived for centuries but now faces new challenges.

The Fight to Preserve a Sacred Place

The threats to Mai Pokhari are as real as they are urgent. Invasive species, haphazard construction, encroaching settlements, and the use of pesticides in the nearby tea plantations have all taken their toll. The introduction of exotic plant and fish species has disrupted the natural balance of the lake. The same development that has brought tourism and prosperity to Ilam has also placed this sacred wetland under pressure.

Yet there is hope. Conservation initiatives have been implemented with the involvement of the Ilam District Forest Office, local eco-clubs, and community forest user groups. A Code of Conduct has been established, water quality is monitored, and a management plan has been developed based on ecological and socio-cultural studies. The Ramsar Small Grants Fund supported a project in 2014 to strengthen coordination and raise awareness of the wetland's importance. These are small but significant steps.

A Walk Through the Clouds

I visited Mai Pokhari in the early morning, when mist rose from the water and the mountains of the Kanchenjunga range were just visible on the distant horizon. The air was cool and heavy with moisture. As I walked around the lake, I passed pilgrims making their offerings and monks reciting prayers. A boat glided silently across the water, its oars barely disturbing the surface.

There is something profoundly peaceful about this place. Perhaps it is the altitude, or perhaps it is the accumulated prayers of centuries. But standing there, watching the light shift across the nine corners of the lake, I understood why the Pandavas were said to have sought refuge here. The challenges of the world feel distant from Mai Pokhari. It is a sanctuary, a place where faith and nature have become indistinguishable, and where a mother's blessing is offered to all who seek it.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Mai Pokhari?
A sacred nine-cornered lake in eastern Nepal, designated as a Ramsar wetland and pilgrimage site for Hindus, Buddhists, and Kirats.

Where is it located?
In Ilam District, about 13 km north of Ilam Bazaar at an altitude of 2,100 metres.

Why is it sacred?
The nine corners are dedicated to nine deities. Hindu mythology links it to the Pandava brothers' exile.

What wildlife can I see?
Himalayan newts, white-rumped vultures, leopard cats, Eurasian otters, and over 300 bird species.

When should I visit?
The best time is October-November (autumn) or spring. Thulo Ekadashi festival draws large crowds.

Is it a protected area?
Yes, declared a Ramsar site in 2008, with ongoing conservation efforts.

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